Dillon Super Swage

[Liam]

Broke down and bought one after reconditioning the primer hole by hand on LC military brass. Wrist wears out with hand-held RCBS tool. Since I am sitting on a bunch of HXP, some of which will be reloaded, I thought it prudent. Appears well-made. The problem is the so called "instructions." They list the parts but don't describe very well how to change them out for different size brass. Also, how does one "set" it so it swages the primer crimps away AND THAT'S ALL?

[wolley]

Did you know that the RCBS tool will fit in a drill motor? Chuck it up on the straight shank that sticks out the back.
Faster than a swager.

[Maury Krupp]

The Dillon instructions do leave a lot to be desired :eusa_wall:

What I do:

-Get a case that's never had a crimp (eg commercial or National Match)
-Place the case on the Locator Rod
-Unscrew the Locator Rod until you're sure the case will be well clear of the Swage Rod
-Lower the handle to extend the Swage Rod
-Screw the Locator Rod in while lining up the primer pocket with the Swage Rod
-Continue to screw the Locator Rod in until it won't screw any more
-Tighten the Locator Rod locknut

The instructions for changing from Large to Small and back again aren't much better.

-Before you start take note of how everything fits together
-Follow the directions as best you can remembering that when you're done you want everything to look like it did before you started

It will all make more sense *after* you've done it :icon_confused:

Maury

[jmoore]

Once set, the main drama I've encountered is that its relatively easy to mangle the primer pocket by starting the punch off center. The tool is powerful enough to make a mess w/o much extra force. Its easiest to mess up w/ heavy crimps.

Solution: Just let the case float- don't try to "improve" alignment by hand! Its most tempting when I haven't used it in a while to "help" things along.:icon_rolleyes:

[Timberwolf]

The Dillon instructions do leave a lot to be desired :eusa_wall:

What I do:

-Get a case that's never had a crimp (eg commercial or National Match)
-Place the case on the Locator Rod
-Unscrew the Locator Rod until you're sure the case will be well clear of the Swage Rod
-Lower the handle to extend the Swage Rod
-Screw the Locator Rod in while lining up the primer pocket with the Swage Rod
-Continue to screw the Locator Rod in until it won't screw any more
-Tighten the Locator Rod locknut

The instructions for changing from Large to Small and back again aren't much better.

-Before you start take note of how everything fits together
-Follow the directions as best you can remembering that when you're done you want everything to look like it did before you started
It will all make more sense *after* you've done it :icon_confused:

Maury

Better yet, get out the digital camera and take pictures.

[S.A. Boggs]

I have had the super swage since it first came out and never looked back. Before that I tried everything from the RCBS unit to a drill bit. What I like about my unit is the ease and speed that it does.
Sam

[drsteve]

I have had the super swage since it first came out and never looked back. Before that I tried everything from the RCBS unit to a drill bit. What I like about my unit is the ease and speed that it does.
Sam
ditto to that

[Liam]

I'm going to mount the thing and folow Mr. Krupp's instructions. Once set for .30-06 case I don't foresee a need to change it as that is the only military brass I plan to reload. Thanks to all.

[joem]

One point that was not mentioned is that different head stamped cases will need minor adjustments to the locator rod. Also some cases will have a inside burr at the flash hole which affects the adjustment.

[S.A. Boggs]

On all cases, I cut the inside flash hole with my flash hole uniformer and then swage.
Sam

[Ping Sr.]

I've read the HXP doesnt need to be swaged. Cant say from experience - have a lot left to shoot before I have to reload.

[Maury Krupp]

The HXP I've seen has the three-point crimp common to a lot of european military brass.

It's not nearly the problem the full circle USGI crimp can be. Many times just depriming is enough to "swage" it away.

Just to be sure I run it through my SuperSwage anyway.

Maury

[jmoore]

As per Mr. Boggs post, I will add- If you don't remove the inside flash, the swage tool may mash it into the flash hole, not the best thing for uniform ignition!

[Liam]

I didn't think it was needed before, but just ordered an RCBS tool with .30 cal collet/guide to clean up hole prior to swaging. There seems to always be JUST ONE MORE TOOL that is needed!