Help with Enfield #4 stock removal

[JGW64]

Any tricks or special steps in taking off the butt stock on an Enfield #4?
Is there a bolt or screw head that is screwed into the receiver?
Thanks

[JB White]

Yes, the large screw at the front of the triggerguard must be removed. Careful as it is torqued tight. Don't lose the lock washer or the bushing inside the forend.
If yours is a No4 Mk2, a Mk1/2, or a MkI/3 then there is a crossbolt screw at the rear which will need to be removed as well.

If it's a No4 MkI or a No4MkI* then DO NOT try to remove the cross rivet going through the tie strap at the rear.

The forends are fitted tight so DO NOT attempt to lever the forend off the rifle. You will split it and/or wreck the draws. The forend needs to be either tapped straight down off the receiver or inverted and the buttsocket tapped down out of the stock.

[Alan De Enfield]

JBW - I think the OP is asking about the Butt rather than the forend.

To remove the Butt - (ideally) remove the butt plate, get a 12" long large, flat blade, screwdriver with a blade width of half inch,

Drop the screwdriver into the butt and listen for a 'metallic' noise - if you hear it you can proceeed and unscrew the bolt.

There is often a felt / leather washer on top of the bolt (to stop the oil bottle rattling) - if you do not hear a 'metallic' noise then there may be a washer in place. You'll need a wire coathager with a small 'hook' bent onto the end, poke about and try to hook out the washer. Once its out you can undo the bolt.

There should be a metal washer beneath the bolt - it may be stuck into the wood but once you have the butt off you can poke it out from the 'front end'.

The bolt will be Veeeeeery, veeeeeery tight you may need to use vice-grips or a spanner on the screwdriver.

Altenatively (and what I use) :
Cut a screwdriver down so you have just the blade and a short shank, fit this into a 1/4" drive socket, get a 12" extension bar and use a ratchet, this will give you enough leverage - never had one beat me yet !!!!

[Guamsst]

If you have a Dodge truck you are in luck although other brands may work. The tire tool is just a long spike with a socket on one end. The tool is only slightly smaller than the hole in the buttstock. Slip the ratchet part of the tool kit over the spiked tire tool. Ensure it is on for the correct direction (lefty loosey) Slide it into the butt of the rifle and turn it until it locks into the groove in the bolt. The tool fits snug and has almost no chance of buggering the bolt.

If the washer is over the bolt, get that wire out and start praying.

[JB White]

JBW - I think the OP is asking about the Butt rather than the forend.

Doh! That's what I get for checking the board on a sleepless night.

[Guamsst]

Doh! That's what I get for checking the board on a sleepless night.

JB, Your info was spot on, even if it was totally useless for this post....LOL Better to be misguided than totally clueless. Get some sleep and get back on course.....LOL

[NLyles]

Does this go for a No.1 Mk.3 as well?

Nick

[JB White]

On a No1 rifle the forewood MUST be removed first prior to removing the buttstock. The bolt has a lug which protrudes beyond the buttsocket into a mating recess within the forend. Attempting to remove the buttstock first will spread the bracket and split the stock.

The exception is the post-1951 Ishapore stock setup with the cross strap at the rear of the forend. That setup used a spring washer as opposed to the lug.

A little tip* With the older wood there is a strong likelyhood of compressing material when reinstalling a buttstock on the India-type SMLE or the No4 rifle. If the forend is in place and you compress the wood while tightening, the bolt tip might protrude through the buttsocket enough to crush against the cross strap/tie plate. Doing that can really mess things up in regard to damage and accuracy.
On those rifles I always assemble opposite the procedure for the No1 rifle. If the bolt protrudes you can not only see it but it won't allow the forend to fit. Time to add another washer.

Hey Guam...do I sound awake enough now? LOL

[Guamsst]

Hey Guam...do I sound awake enough now? LOL

Well, you can now tell a forestock from your butt......uhm stock. I do think if you have never tried the tire tool method, you are missing out. It's like it was made for the job.

[JB White]

Never needed to use a tire iron. I have a very large Mac screwdriver, 18" long and 1/2" square shank with a blade that fits perfectly. Even if the bolt is stubborn a wrench gives me all the extra torque I need. It's also handy for tension pulleys and lifting engines off of nasty motor mounts.