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Thread: 5.56 reloading and crimp question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Smith Valley, NV
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Guess I'm going to be the odd ball here. I load mixed lots of mostly LC brass, usualy with AA 2200 ball powder and 55 gr. hardball with crimping grove. Large runs on my dillon ( 5000 or so ) work out better with a lite taper crimp into the grove. I've had squib rounds without crimping, these aren't loaded for match shooting, reliability and function is important. Will do the same crimp when loading surplus 62 gr. green tip. Will this stuff win matches, don't think so. But adverage group shot from the bench in a 20" 1/9 twist is 1 1/2" @100 yards with a scope. Good enough for me. Note here that I trim my brass every time and hold the trim to .001 with a high speed trimmer. If you can't hold the trim of the case very close, I wouldn't crimp. Longer case will crimp harder, short, is less crimp. Uniform crimp makes all the difference in accuracy. Once the crimp die is set, never adjust for the entire run.
    Chris
    Last edited by Chris W.; 03-17-2012 at 09:58.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    306

    Default Thanks for responsed, GENTS!

    Just making do with components around the bench.
    Have used the 748 since 96, for standard loading for all rifles 7.62, Cal.30 & 5.56.

    Just used friction on match ammo when seated the bullets, Maybeo able to get some 62gr and thinking about crimping those.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    N. E. Ohio
    Posts
    240

    Default

    I don't crimp either and it sounds like the vast majority of reloaders don't. If I was expecting rough handling of the ammo, I might consider it, but with normal practices, why bother.

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