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Thread: Is this normal?

  1. #11
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    I remember when I returned from deployment on the USS Ranger... after each deployment (I made 3), they did customes inspections before we pulled into home port, and we all just hid our stuff somewhere. Then, when we pulled in, they never checked our sea bags!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by psteinmayer View Post
    That makes perfect sense since it looks like it has been sawn. What is the best way to repairl it?
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    Dean (the other one)
    OFC-Orange Co. Ca Chapter

  3. #13
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    I would try a wood dowel in the cleaning rod hole with a little wood glue. I am sure others have better more complex methods. Or, just use duct tape.
    I own firearms not to fight against my government, but to ensure I will not have to.

  4. #14
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    I have never done a Jap rifle, have done several German. The cut off piece is much shorter on the German. I have drilled the cleaning hole on both stock and forend as large as possible for a couple inches in depth, make the hole same as a standrd size doll rod, cut the doll rod to length and glue the ends to-gether, leaving a slight crack for the saw cut, which has already been coated with glue. Use an epoxy of some sort. Be sure the barrel channel is lined up on both pieces. You can but "pegs" at any wood work store that have gooves in them to hold the glue, they come in several dia. and lengths. After dry you have to redrill the cleaning rod hole. Extension drills are sold, may not be long enough for a jap. I had one made at work, years ago, a drill bit welded to a rod.
    Another method would be to find 2-two inch screws and cut the heads off. Must be long enough to have threads the whole length, metal screws work good as they are same dia the whole length. Drill pilot hole on each side of cleaning rod hole and screw the screw into main stock about 1/2 length of screw or about an inch. With stock on the action, slide the forend down till it contacks the scews sticking out, line everything up and tap the forend to mark. Drill forend holes slightly larger then the screws, so they slip in. Use epoxy in holes and to fill saw cut and slip forend down to dry.
    As you will be working with the barrel in the stock wrap the area with a layer of seran wrap to keep from glueing barrel to stock!
    If this is clear as mud, come back and ask questions.

  5. #15
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    Thanks so very much for the suggestions! I might use the Duct Tape, LOL! I disassembled the rifle tonight... Can't quite figure out yet how to get the front band/bayonet mount past the front sight, but I guess I don't really need to at this point... I will post some before and after pictures of the repair job!

    Paul

  6. #16
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    Turn the front band upside down, where the flat bottom of the band matches the top of the front sight guards. If it's a real early model, the front sight guards might be too high, and the front band won't pass over the sight.

    Oops, just checked the book. The series 31 does have the higher front sight. So forget about removing the front sight from the barrel.
    Last edited by Deano41; 05-01-2012 at 07:36.
    Dean (the other one)
    OFC-Orange Co. Ca Chapter

  7. #17
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    I know, it is definitely too high... the bitch is that the rear barrel band can't pass over the front band either... so I will have to work at this by working around the bands!

  8. #18
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    You're going to take the stock off the barreled action any way, so it shouldn't be too bad. Match the handguard where it "steps" down for the rear band, to meet the same spot on the stock. Then match the front end of the handguard with the front end of the cut stock. This should leave a space between the two pieces of the stock. That space is the measurement for the "spacer" you are going to glue to the front of the cut stock. (that space is the wood removed by the saw).
    Last edited by Deano41; 05-02-2012 at 06:28.
    Dean (the other one)
    OFC-Orange Co. Ca Chapter

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