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wow,,
you know, i think i said, 3 times..that Winchester and Remington used a yellow chromate in the rinse, that gave them the green hue, and that its not safe to use..
i can get a yellow chromate..{think we both spelled it wrong} but was told by my supplier that it wont change color.
and needs a letter from my local fire dept, to have.
as for the strength and darkness, that i agree, that and the supplier of the mix.
i stopped using Brownells, shooters solutions and palmettos , and found the company used by the US Navy..
since then i dont have a problem with light and dark variations, i do add water and more consentrate each time i use it.
i fire my tanks at least 4 times a month, heres some other things that will lighten the color.
leaving your tanks uncovered between uses, the acid gasses off, and makes the final product blochy.
using black iron tanks instead of stainless steel, for the longest time i didint think it mattered much,
i was going through tanks every 6 mos. the acid ate through the sides.
asked my supplier, she told me, even when the tank is cold, the phosphate will react with the black iron. and weaken.
i switched to a stainless tank, that cured that..also i dont get as much sludge in the bottom,
and the mix stays a nice green color, insted of turning tan or browm.
rinsing in cold water will make the finish blochy, and let rust come to the surface faster then hot water rinse.
tap water shouldnt be used. as it has other chems, in it for us to drink..
i use tap water, but let a 5 gallon bucket set outside open for 24 hours to let them gas off.
after you are done with the hot water rinse, go right to oil.. dont let set for more then a minute, rust will rise in areas.. i use a hydrolic oil, mixed with ATF. i get it cheap, and it goes through a squirt bottle easy.
see, all that BS.. and we were agreeing anyway...for the most part..
cept for cosmoline turning things green...
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